Ingredient Spotlight: Alpha Arbutin 101
Ingredient Spotlight: Alpha Arbutin 101
Along with niacinamide and vitamin C, alpha arbutin is the latest skincare ingredient joining the ranks for its potent antioxidant properties. It’s especially beneficial for uneven skin tone since it’s a derivative of hydroquinone.
Like with makeup, there are always new trends in skincare. Whether it’s a certain type of product or application technique that rises in popularity, there seems to be new breakthroughs in skincare every week.
Lately, alpha arbutin has taken a place under the spotlight for its benefits related to hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone. If you’re unfamiliar with alpha arbutin, you may have heard of its cousin hydroquinone before. Hydroquinone is a skin lightening agent that has hidden dangers.
If you’re looking for the brightening benefits of hydroquinone without the safety concerns, try alpha arbutin instead.
What is Alpha Arbutin?
Alpha arbutin, also known as Hydroquinone β-D-glucopyranoside, is a naturally occurring antioxidant that is used as a skin brightener in skincare products. It can also be derived from synthetic sources.
It is a derivative of hydroquinone that is naturally found in the bearberry plant as well as cranberries, blueberries, wheat, and pears, though it displays less melanocyte cytotoxicity according to research published in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences.
You can find alpha arbutin in serums, essences, and moisturizers formulated for brightening and antioxidant benefits.
Alpha Arbutin Benefits
The skin benefits of alpha arbutin mainly relate to its antioxidant and brightening properties, which explains why it’s commonly used as an alternative to hydroquinone.
Improves Melasma
Many people with melasma seek topical treatments to help fade dark spots and sun spots. Per the American Academy of Dermatology, melasma is a common skin problem that is characterized by brown patches or spots on the skin. The main causes of melasma include sun exposure, hormonal changes like pregnancy, and irritation from skincare products.
Researchers have recommended a variety of topical treatment options for melasma, including arbutin. Since it is less toxic than hydroquinone and can inhibit melanin synthesis, arbutin may be an effective treatment option for hypermelanosis.
Lightens Dark Spots and Hyperpigmentation
In addition to melasma, sun exposure can also cause dark spots and hyperpigmentation. As the dangers of some skin lightening ingredients become more thoroughly researched, natural alternatives are necessary.
Existing research published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology suggests that arbutin may be an effective treatment for hyperpigmentation. However, more research is needed to confirm the findings.
Antioxidant Activities
Vitamin C is often dubbed as the go-to skin brightening ingredient. It’s also packed with antioxidant activities, meaning it fights off free radical damage. If you regularly use vitamin C serums, there’s a good chance you’ll appreciate the antioxidant properties of alpha arbutin.
According to research published in Free Radical Research, the antioxidant activity of alpha arbutin was originally believed to be weak, especially when compared to hydroquinone. However, recent studies have shown that alpha arbutin has strong antioxidant activities that are comparable to hydroquinone.
Lessens Acne Scarring
People who struggle with adult acne — some 50 million people in the U.S. — are familiar with the aftermath of acne, which is acne scarring. Alpha arbutin can help lessen the appearance of acne scarring that may be due to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Improves Uneven Skin Tone
Alpha arbutin is known as a pigmentation inhibitor, making it popular for improving uneven skin tone.
Here’s how it works: pigmentation and discoloration can be caused by the presence of melanin, which is a skin pigment that makes skin appear darker. According to Mayo Clinic, melanin has protective properties against the sun damaging effects of the sun. When skin is exposed to the sun’s rays, it reacts by producing more melanin, which has a darker appearance on the surface of skin.
Alpha arbutin counteracts the skin’s response that produces melanin to minimize pigmentation in the skin and encourage an even skin tone.
Is Alpha Arbutin Safe?
Alpha arbutin receives a positive safe grade from the Good Face Project. It is especially safer than its counterpart, hydroquinone. If you’re looking for a skin brightening ingredient that is gentle, consider alpha arbutin.
Side effects may include redness or irritation, so always perform a patch test before using a new product if you have sensitive skin.
How to Use Alpha Arbutin
Introducing a new ingredient in your skincare routine can be confusing, especially if you have sensitive skin. Fortunately, alpha arbutin is easy to incorporate since it’s suitable for all skin types and skin tones.
It’s important to note that alpha arbutin is safe to use in people with darker skin tones. Unlike skin lightening agents, such as hydroquinone, alpha arbutin does not have a bleaching effect.
Who It’s For
Alpha arbutin is recommended for anyone looking to even out their skin tone. If you experience sun-damaged skin, hyperpigmentation, dark spots, melasma, acne scars, or dull skin, you can incorporate an alpha arbutin serum or cream into your skin regimen to lighten dark areas of concern.
FAQ
Is alpha arbutin better than vitamin C?
Vitamin C and alpha arbutin are both potent antioxidants. Vitamin C may have more antioxidant properties than alpha arbutin, but alpha arbutin may be a more effective brightening agent. Fortunately, you don’t have to choose between the two. Vitamin C and alpha arbutin can work synergistically in the same skincare routine.
Is alpha arbutin better than niacinamide?
What is the difference between arbutin and alpha arbutin?
Can I use alpha arbutin every day?
Sources
American Academy of Dermatology: “Melasma: Overview”
American Academy of Dermatology: “Melasma: Who Gets and Causes”
Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology: “Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation”
Indian Journal of Dermatology: “Topical Treatment of Melasma”