Ingredient Spotlight: Salicylic Acid 101

If you’ve searched high and low for an OTC face wash for acne, you’ve likely come across salicylic acid before. This BHA exfoliant is the enemy of acne.

If you have acne-prone skin, salicylic acid should be on your radar. Fortunately, it’s an ingredient that’s hard to miss in the world of skincare.

Salicylic acid is a powerhouse active ingredient commonly used in cleansers, serums, spot treatments, peels, and body products for acne. It treats acne by clearing the pores, making it especially beneficial against whiteheads and blackheads.

This zit-zapping exfoliant fights acne-causing bacteria to reveal a clearer complexion. It can also be used to revive dull skin, reduce inflammation, and dissolve pore-clogging debris.

What is Salicylic Acid?

Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is applied topically to exfoliate the skin, unclog pores, and treat acne. It is available in over-the-counter (OTC) products as well as prescription-strength products for acne.

This ingredient is naturally derived from plant sources like willow bark extract, though it can also be made from synthetic sources.

Salicylic acid is mainly used in skincare products for facial acne, but it is also used in shampoos for dandruff or dermatitis on the scalp, solutions to treat warts, body washes for psoriasis, and more.

How It Works

To understand how salicylic acid works to banish breakouts, let’s discuss the cause of acne. The American Academy of Dermatology states that acne develops when pores become clogged. There are many causes and types of acne, but the formation of a pimple usually comes down to a follicle that is clogged by dead skin cells, bacteria, and sebum (aka oil).

Salicylic acid works by penetrating deep into skin to unclog those follicles and prevent them from becoming clogged again. It exfoliates the surface of the skin to get rid of dead skin cells and penetrates into pores to dissolve debris. Not only does this help to improve acne, the exfoliating properties reveal a fresh, new layer of smooth skin on the surface.

Since it is a BHA, salicylic acid is often compared to alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) like glycolic acid and lactic acid. These AHAs are water-soluble, so they’re beneficial for exfoliating the outer layers of skin. Oil-soluble BHAs like salicylic acid penetrate through the lipid layers between skin cells, working deeper to dissolve debris clogging pores and acting as an anti-inflammatory agent.

Salicylic Acid Benefits

The benefits of salicylic acid mainly relate to treating acne, balancing oil production, and exfoliating the skin. Salicylic acid is also beneficial for reducing inflammation and calming redness, both of which improve the appearance of acne.

Clears clogged pores

Different types of acne are associated with various causes. The cause of acne is usually linked to acne-causing bacteria and pores that are clogged with dead skin cells, sebum, and debris. This is where oil-soluble ingredients like salicylic acid come in handy. Since salicylic acid is oil-soluble, it can travel through the lipid layers of skin to reach deep into the pores. There, it will dissolve the sebum trapped in pores, taking dead skin cells and debris with it. This results in fewer breakouts with regular use.

Salicylic Acid Masks

Reduces inflammation

Inflammation and acne go hand-in-hand. Painful pimples can cause skin to become red, inflamed, and irritated. Salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe irritated skin and calm redness, so it targets acne deep inside the skin and calms and alleviates tenderness on the skin's exterior.

Salicylic Acid Toners

Exfoliates dead skin cells

You may have heard that salicylic acid can brighten dull skin and improve skin tone and texture. This is because BHAs like salicylic acid have exfoliating properties. Salicylic acid works through chemical exfoliation instead of physical exfoliation, so it can be less damaging to the skin. However, too much exfoliation can lead to irritation.

Salicylic Acid Exfoliators

Is Salicylic Acid Safe?

Salicylic acid receives a positive safety grade from The Good Face Project. It is a thoroughly researched ingredient that is associated with improvements in skin affected by acne with minimal safety risks. While it is widely considered safe, salicylic acid is associated with low risk of allergic reactions and irritation.

However, there are side effects of salicylic acid. According to MedlinePlus, side effects include: skin irritation, stinging, hives, itching, swelling, and more. Depending on the severity of the side effects, emergency medical intervention may be necessary.

Salicylic acid allergy is possible though it is not common. This is classified as an allergy to the family of salicylates, according to WebMD. If you’re allergic to salicylicates, you’ll need to avoid not only salicylic acid but also aspirin, mint, peppermint, spearmint, and a variety of other foods, medications, and cosmetics.

How to Use Salicylic Acid

Using salicylic acid properly and safely depends on the type of product. Always read product labels carefully and follow the package instructions. If you have sensitive skin, it is advised to perform a patch test to see if you experience any type of negative reaction before applying to a larger area of the body.

One of the most common types of salicylic acid products is facial washes and cleansers for acne. To use a salicylic acid face wash, wet your face and work the cleanser into a lather. Cleanse thoroughly for 10-20 seconds and rinse.

For more information on how to use different forms of salicylic acid — creams, lotions, ointments, gels, and solutions — WebMD offers instructions for various applications and product types.

Who It’s For

Salicylic acid is best for oily and acne-prone skin. It helps regulate oil production so excessive oil does not clog pores. For people with active acne, salicylic acid can treat existing breakouts and prevent new ones.

Since salicylic acid can be drying, people with dry, normal, and sensitive skin may find this ingredient too harsh.

FAQ

What does salicylic acid do to your skin?
When applied to the skin, salicylic acid works as a chemical exfoliant. It is oil-soluble, so it penetrates through the lipid layers of the skin, reaching deep into the pores to clear away excess sebum, dead skin cells, and debris.

Can you use salicylic acid every day?
When should salicylic acid be used?