How to Determine Which Skincare Active Ingredients are Best for You

How to Determine Which Skincare Active Ingredients are Best for You

There are a lot of skincare active ingredients touted for their benefits. But which skincare actives are right for your skin type and skin concerns? Let’s find out.

You’ve probably heard of the major skincare active ingredients — hyaluronic acid, vitamin c, and retinol to name a few — but how do you know which ones you really need?

If you read the packaging or product description of nearly any skincare product, you might be convinced that it’s perfect for you. Knowing which skincare active ingredients are suited to your skin type and concerns will help you build a solid skincare regimen.

With a little research, you can build a skincare routine that revolves around your specific needs. You can do this yourself by determining which skincare products and active ingredients you need, or you can download the free Good Face App for a free personalized skincare routine that’s suited to you and free of harsh ingredients.

What are Skincare Actives?

Take a look at the back of your favorite cleanser or moisturizer. You’ll notice that one product is made up of dozens of ingredients. Each ingredient serves a different purpose. Some ingredients are formulated to yield a certain texture while others are designed to improve skin in some way.

Since it can be tricky to differentiate active ingredients from inactive ingredients in cosmetics, we sought the help of a board-certified dermatologist Caren Campbell, M.D. to answer the question, “What are active ingredients in skincare?”

According to Dr. Campbell, “Active ingredients are those intended to effect change on the skin. For example, the actual retinol, glycolic acid, and other ingredients in a skincare product that work to change the way the skin is behaving to achieve the desired outcome.”

SPF products are among the easiest to identify the active ingredients because they are clearly labeled. For example, the active ingredient in the Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 is Zinc Oxide. That is the ingredient intended to change the way skin is behaving to achieve the desired outcome. In this case, the outcome is protection from sun exposure.

Let’s look at another example — one where the active ingredients aren’t so obvious. The Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum has multiple active ingredients. Ceramides and Vitamin B5 are clearly labeled on the packaging. Upon further inspection, the product is also formulated with Hyaluronic Acid. Though these active ingredients have different benefits, they work together to improve hydration levels in skin.

Common Skincare Active Ingredients

There are simply too many skincare ingredients to memorize, but the key active ingredients are worth familiarizing yourself with. Here are the most common skincare active ingredients to keep on your radar.

1. Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a classic skincare active ingredient that almost everyone should know about. It’s touted for its brightening benefits as well as its antioxidant properties. Vitamin C is thoroughly researched in scientific journals. In fact, the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology considers vitamin C to be one of the most powerful antioxidants in skin. It’s also shown to reduce hyperpigmentation, protect against photoaging, and increase collagen synthesis.

2. Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a well-known hydrator in cosmetics. According to Harvard Health Publishing, Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that can bind more than one thousand times its weight in water. Essentially, hyaluronic acid is a water magnet, which explains why it’s found in many hydrating serums and moisturizers.

3. Retinol (Vitamin A)

Retinol, which is a derivative of vitamin A, is a key anti-aging ingredient in skincare products. It’s also been used to treat acne, scars, psoriasis, and disorders of keratinization. Retinol works by neutralizing free radicals to boost the product of collagen and elastin. This “plumps” up the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and enlarged pores.

According to the Journal of Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, “Vitamin A is the first vitamin approved by the Food and Drug Administration as an anti-wrinkle agent that changes appearance of the skin surface and has anti-aging effects.”

4. AHAs like Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid

Chemical exfoliation is one way to encourage skin renewal, leaving behind a smooth surface of fresh skin cells. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid and lactic acid are among the most common chemical exfoliants.

AHAs are water-soluble and often come from sugary fruits. Since they help peel back the top layer of skin, you may have heard AHAs referred to as “chemical peels.” This helps encourage more even skin with less pigmentation and texture.

5. BHAs like Salicylic Acid

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are similar to AHAs. Examples include salicylic acid and citric acid, which are known to reduce inflammation, slow oil production, absorb excess sebum, and get rid of dead skin cells, according to Healthline.

It can be difficult to determine which form of chemical exfoliation is right for you, but BHAs are typically suitable for people with oily and acne-prone skin.

6. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Niacinamide is a source of B vitamins for the skin, and it’s commonly formulated in serums. There are many benefits of using niacinamide in your skincare routine. According to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, niacinamide is beneficial for stabilizing the epidermis (aka skin barrier), which can reduce transepidermal water loss. It also has anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits.

7. Peptides

Peptides are often compared to collagen since they encourage youthful-looking skin and anti-aging benefits. Like collagen, peptides also occur naturally in skin, though the amount of peptides likely reduce over time.

8. Ceramides

More than 50% of the skin barrier is made up of ceramides, which are a family of lipids. If you’ve ever heard of the brick and mortar analogy to skin cells, ceramides act as the “glue” that holds skin cells together. This boosts the structure and integrity of the skin barrier, which is necessary to keep invaders out but moisture and nourishment in. Since ceramides are a skin-identical ingredient, they’re beneficial for most skin types.

9. Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl peroxide is an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory ingredient often used to treat or prevent acne. Several scientific studies and journals have collected clinical data showing the effectiveness of benzoyl peroxide in treating acne. Since it can be irritating, it’s not recommended for sensitive skin.

10. Vitamin E (Tocopherol)

Vitamin E is right up there with Vitamin A (Retinol) and Vitamin C. It’s another antioxidant that fends off free radical damage, which can cause premature aging. Vitamin E may also have photoprotective properties according to the Indian Online Dermatology Journal.

Personalized Skincare Routine

Building a skincare routine around the best active ingredients for your skin type while also straying away from toxic cosmetics is a daunting task. Fortunately, you don’t have to do it alone. Our mission is to make non-toxic the norm, so we won’t leave you hanging.

Get a free personalized skincare regimen that's unique to your skin and free of harmful ingredients on the Good Face app. Consider it your personal beauty matchmaker — one that’s backed by science, powered by clean ingredients, and tailored to your needs, lifestyle, and environment.

Sources

The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology: “Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications” Healthline: “How Does Retinol Work on the Skin?” Harvard Health Publishing: “The Hype on Hyaluronic Acid” Advances in Dermatology and Allergology: “Retinoids: Active Molecules Influencing Skin Structure Formation in Cosmetic and Dermatological Treatments” Healthline: “AHA vs. BHA: What’s the Difference?” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology: “Nicotinic Acid/Niacinamide and the Skin” The Journal of Dermatology: “Clinical Efficacy and Safety of Benzoyl Peroxide for Acne Vulgaris: Comparison Between Japanese and Western Patients” Indian Online Dermatology Journal: “Vitamin E in Dermatology”