Ingredient Spotlight: Azelaic Acid 101

“Acid” may sound scary, but azelaic acid is far from it. This active ingredient is known for its abilities to bust breakouts by killing bacteria and soothing inflammation. It’s also suitable for people with rosacea since it decreases swelling and redness. If you’ve been curious about the benefits of azelaic acid and how to incorporate azelaic acid into your skincare routine, keep reading.

When you dive into the world of active ingredients in skincare, you may get a little overwhelmed. There are a lot of ingredients to be aware of — some can be potentially game-changing while others may pose risk to your well-being.

Azelaic acid is a skincare active ingredient that isn’t as well known as superstars like hyaluronic acid and vitamin C but is more commonly found in skincare routines for acne and rosacea. It’s gained quite a bit of attention lately.

If you’re curious about azelaic acid, here’s what you need to know about its benefits and how to incorporate it into your skincare regimen.

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in wheat, rye, and barley. It’s also an antiseptic with antibacterial properties.

Azelaic acid products may take the form of creams, gels, or foams, and they’re applied topically to facial skin. Azelaic acid creams are used to kill acne-causing bacteria and the foams and gels can treat mild to moderate cases of rosacea, per the Mayo Clinic.

Certain brands of azelaic acid products are available with a prescription only due to the high concentration, but there are many azelaic acid products available over the counter. Concentrations of 15 percent and higher usually require a prescription. Lower concentrations are available without a prescription.

Other names for azelaic acid include:

• Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, a stable derivative of azelaic acid
• Nonanedioic acid
• Anchoic acid

Skin Benefits of Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is mainly associated with its benefits relating to acne and rosacea, but there are many benefits of azelaic acid. Other benefits include improved hyperpigmentation and increased cell turnover, which helps fade acne scars and heal wounds.

Antibacterial Properties Help Treat Acne

Finding the right products for acne can be an uphill battle. There are many factors that go into treating acne, and the underlying causes of acne can be difficult to pinpoint. Researchers do know, however, that certain strains of bacteria are linked to acne.

Azelaic acid has been shown to be an effective treatment for mild to moderate acne. This is largely due to its properties as an antibacterial agent that kills acne-causing bacteria.

Soothes Rosacea

Rosacea is a common skin condition that is characterized by redness and small red bumps. The cause of rosacea is unknown but flares can be brought on by triggers like spicy food. Since people with rosacea are prone to flushing and sensitivity, finding suitable skincare products can be challenging. Fortunately, the research suggests that azelaic acid yields promising results for rosacea symptoms.

Improves Hyperpigmentation

Skin lightening agents that are marketed to fade dark spots like hydroquinone can be dangerous. There are some safe alternatives, including azelaic acid. It can improve hyperpigmentation and areas of discoloration by preventing the skin from producing melanin, a pigment that darkens your skin tone. Azelaic acid improves acne severity as well as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, according to a June 2011 study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.

Encourages Skin Cell Renewal

Skin cells are constantly turning themselves over. This process of replacing themselves helps speed up skin healing and is also associated with anti-aging benefits. Azelaic acid helps assist this process, which has a variety of benefits. This can also help fade acne scars and heal wounds.

Is Azelaic Acid Safe?

Azelaic acid receives a positive safety grade from the Good Face Project. Proper topical use of azelaic acid is associated with low risk of toxicity and negative side effects.

Potential side effects of azelaic acid include itching, burning, rash, hives, and swelling, per the U.S. National Library of Medicine.

Azelaic acid is also thoroughly researched and widely recommended by dermatologists. It’s considered effective, safe, and well tolerated when applied topically, according to a June 2018 study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.

Azelaic acid is currently under review by the Government of Canada. The ingredient may cause skin irritation when used at high concentrations and may be added to the list of restricted substances.

This ingredient is generally well tolerated by most skin types, though people with sensitive skin may experience some sensitivity.

How to Use Azelaic Acid

When introducing any new active ingredient into your skincare regimen, it’s always wise to perform a patch test. This will alert you to any reactions on a small area of skin before applying the product on your entire face.

While azelaic acid is generally safe to use, it can cause irritation when used in high concentrations or when used improperly. The University of Michigan Health recommends the following practices on how to use azelaic acid properly:

• Follow the directions on your prescription or OTC product label.
• Apply twice daily or as directed by a healthcare professional.
• Only use azelaic acid once daily if you experience burning, dryness, or irritation.
• Do not use on skin that is sunburned, chapped, irritated, or broken.
• Avoid using skincare products that cause irritation, such as astringents, on the same area.

Unlike some active ingredients in skincare, azelaic acid plays well with others. It doesn’t have many ingredient frenemies and can even be applied alongside AHAs and BHAs.

FAQ

Who should use azelaic acid?
Anyone can use azelaic acid, but it’s especially beneficial for people with acne-prone skin and rosacea. It’s suitable for all skin types, though people with sensitive skin should use azelaic acid with caution. Azelaic acid is also safe for use during pregnancy, though you should always check with your OBGYN before use.

Who should not use azelaic acid?

Does azelaic acid reduce acne scars?

Is azelaic acid gluten free?

Sources

Journal of Drugs in Dermatology: “The Efficacy and Safety of Azelaic Acid 15% Foam in the Treatment of Facial Acne Vulgaris”
Mayo Clinic: “Azelaic Acid (Topical Route)”
Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology: “Efficacy of topical azelaic acid gel in the treatment of mild-moderate acne vulgaris”
Expert Opinion on Pharmacotherapy: “Azelaic acid 15% gel in the treatment of rosacea”
U.S. National Library of Medicine: “Azelaic Acid Topical”
Government of Canada: "Notice to Stakeholders concerning review of the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist"
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology: “Efficacy and safety of azelaic acid (AzA) gel 15% in the treatment of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and acne: a 16-week, baseline-controlled study”
University of Michigan Health: “Azelaic acid topical”